is it good?
don’t ask questions that nobody has the answers to
As I recall, the night of the incident was a Thursday during that anticipatory part of October in which the four weeks of cool air and less oppressive sunlight that Texas is contractually obligated to hasn’t quite started, but a sporadic day or two of rain has reminded us that this time exists and is coming. In the dimly-lit dining room of this brand new restaurant, my slightly-too-small white button down tucked into my Levi’s found itself in a similar period of adjustment as I fidgeted with the fabric to remedy the discomfort that the tugging straps of my apron caused. A subtle sweat trickled from my brow in a frustrating showing of the fact that no matter how well-designed or controlled a dining room’s air conditioning system is, the workers who exist within it will never be comfortable with the temperature. From inside the vast expanse of my apron, I fished out a corkscrew boasting the same attention-grabbing branding as the rest of the restaurant - a detail that does little other than to serve as a reminder of how intentionally curated every detail in this boutique restaurant is. With my tool in hand, I was now on stage. The audience: a four-top of business-casual clad twenty-somethings - two men and two women by the look of them, but you can never be too sure so best not to be presumptuous. The show: a bottle of Borja Perez “Artifice” Listán Negro, vintage 2019.
With the bottle resting against my white-linen-laden forearm, I lean over the young woman who ordered the wine from me to present the bottle while her friends chatter. I always hold my breath during this part because I have a strange apprehension about breathing on the guests which only makes the seconds that pass between my presentation of the bottle and the guest’s approval of it seem longer. She confirms that this is the imbibement that they’ll be enjoying this evening and with a subtle smile and a nod, I return to my upright position, secure the white linen on my arm, and flip the blade out of my corkscrew. As if the small, serrated blade that I cut the foil with was a machete, the conversation stops abruptly and they all stare at me as I make two cuts along the neck of the bottle to release the cork from its foil prison.
I hate when this happens. My preference for conversation to continue and for no acknowledgement of my presence to occur while I do this is so strong that any alternative experience is borderline irritating. I quickly pop the foil cap off, sneak it into my apron, then rotate the bottle forty-five degrees to start twisting the coil into the cork. It’s at this point in time that one of the gentlemen at the table decides to test me which, ninety-eight percent of the time feels harmless at worst and coming from a place of genuine interest at best, but this immediately felt like the two percent exception. This man clearly knew something about this wine and wanted to use me as a vessel to demonstrate this knowledge to his peers.
“So what do you know about this wine?” he says to me with one eyebrow slightly raised to match the half smirk that’s recently found its way upon his face. Admittedly, wine has never been my strong point in the restaurant game. While I certainly know more than your average Joe, in this environment, I’m outclassed by several of my colleagues that, under most circumstances, I would be happy to tap for any wine-related questions that I didn’t immediately possess an answer for, but on this luckiest of days, I was within close enough of proximity from a recent wine class in which we covered this exact bottle to provide some coherent responses.
“Certainly.” I replied. “This wine is primarily composed of Listán Negro featuring some light blending in French oak with other grapes native to the Spanish Canary Islands. Canary Island wines are fun because the terroir shows a lot of diversity due to how volcanic soil has affected the land development. In this Listán Negro, the grapes see prolonged maceration and minimal intervention and are finished in the French oak for 12 months. The result is a complex, but delicate wine with a lot of smoke on the nose, but a softer palate and enough tannic structure to feel well-rounded without being overwhelming.” Not the most astute explanation I could have come up with, but for a guy who doesn’t hang his hat on wine knowledge, I got my point across just in time to silently release the cork from the bottle which is exactly what I needed from myself.
It was at this moment that the incident occurred. The other man at the table, seizing the window of silence left by me not giving his friend an opportunity to mansplain wine to me, opened his mouth and uttered the three words that leave me beside my routine sensibilities in this environment that I’m generally so comfortable in. This man, who though seemingly close in age to me clearly has had a vastly different life experience, looked up at me and curled his lips to ask:
“Is it good?”
Is it good? Is that the unflinching metric by which you judge your daily experiences? Is it good? Fuck, man. I don’t know. Do the two-hundred year old vines produce a quality grape? Do the master winemakers at the vineyards contribute quality experience to the refinement of the juice into a wine that could be considered “good”? Ask yourself how dumb that question is. If you want to ask me if I personally enjoy this wine, that’s a question that, while wholly subjective and generally unhelpful, is at least not what I would consider a dumb question. What am I supposed to say in response to such an inquiry? Every time this question comes my way about anything in a restaurant I work in, I can’t help but think of every time in my memory that I’ve had to reckon with this strange, off putting question.
It happens somewhat often. I recall a man at another restaurant I worked at asking me to tell him about some popular items on the menu and, after describing in excruciating detail a monkfish dish that I was particularly fond of, he gave me a blank stare and asked - you guessed it - “is it good though?” Why did I pick this item to discuss at length with you if I didn’t think it was good? My man, you’re paying over a hundred dollars a head at a nationally acclaimed restaurant in a city with nothing but competition; do you not think that we can source fish well and cook it in a way that people enjoy?
Now maybe I’m misunderstanding; perhaps these people are asking me if they will think it’s good? Ah. So I’m now adding telepath to my resume. What business is it of mine to have kept up with your predilections so thoroughly throughout the course of your existence to know your tastes the way you expect me to? If I could look at someone and know without a doubt which item on a menu was best for them, I think I would be in possession of a skillset that could lend itself better to something more grandiose than waiting tables. I’ve mentioned this before, but I love the hospitality experience because serving others and making their Friday nights better is fulfilling for me - especially when I get to do so by talking to them about food and cocktails which is something I think I’ve made clear that I’m passionate about. I want to contribute to enriching someone’s experience at any restaurant that employs me. If there is a piece of knowledge or information that I possess that I can use to better someone’s experience, I want to use it. But it helps when the person you want to help is helping you help them. These lazy attempts at forcing me to make a decision for them are pointless, yet overall harmless on a good day, but annoying and borderline-insulting on most.
So, dear reader, if you take anything away from this rant, let it be this: everything is good to somebody. Don’t make an ass out of yourself by attempting to erode subjectivity just because you lack imagination. Take a chance, try something unfamiliar, and fucking live a little without needing to seek validation for your decisions. I’ll close here with a quote from someone who was way smarter and more articulate about this subject than I:
“Eat at a local restaurant tonight. Get the cream sauce. Have a cold pint at 4 o’clock in a mostly empty bar. Go somewhere you’ve never been. Listen to someone you think may have nothing in common with you. Order the steak rare. Eat an oyster. Have a negroni. Have two. Be open to a world where you may not understand or agree with the person next to you, but have a drink with them anyways. Eat slowly. Tip your server. Check in on your friends. Check in on yourself. Enjoy the ride.”
james corden & the dilemma of the restaurant menace
there’s a strong case to be made for shaming bad restaurant guests
What a fascinating time to be alive in this strange space that we occupy. An artist once heralded as the timeless voice of a generation is now an open right-wing conspiracy-peddling anti-semite, it is now seen as somewhat acceptable political savvy to film a sex tape as a means by which to gain electoral support, and apparently, as a waiter, I’m now obligated to give more notice for quitting my job than the prime minister of the United Kingdom. Yes, it’s all very disjointed and difficult to follow, but in this world of discourse, anger, and apathy for our fellow man, at least we can all find comfort and unity in our mutual disdain for the carpool karaoke guy.
For those of y’all who are less terminally online than me, The Late Late Show host, James Corden, recently entered into a public debacle with a famous New York City restaurant over his inability to act like a polite human being to those who serve his food. You can read more here; I don’t feel the need to recap something that’s been so extensively covered by writers much more successful than me.
It is difficult for me to articulate the duality of emotion that I get to experience with the news of James Corden being banned and subsequently unbanned from New York City French eatery, Balthazar. On one hand, I delight in an opportunity to take part in the ribbing of a celebrity that I have long thought to be one of the most obnoxious and unnecessary voices in American media, but at the same time, I think the behavior Corden demonstrated to get banned from a restaurant (and the countless other well-documented instances in which James Corden has proven himself to be - as Balthazar owner Kevin McNally said - a tiny cretin of a man) is being downplayed as something of a rare, but telling example of the way that entitled celebrities and miscellaneous rich folk act with the captive audience of underpaid service workers.
The ugly truth behind this piece of media sensationalism is that these behaviors are not, in fact, rare occurrences that only happen within the walls of hoity-toity Soho restaurants, but real and tragically common antics that every server and bartender has had to contend with on a multitude of occasions. Don’t misunderstand me, I am unquestionably here for the shaming of another famous talking head who uses their status and celebrity to torment my overworked and underpaid service industry comrades, but every time something comes out about someone in the public eye being intolerable towards this vulnerable sector of society, non-industry folk become much more vocal about attempting to shame than they ever are when the perpetrator is their mother or friend.
What I implore for everyone who is as outraged about James Corden being an entitled prick is to maintain that same energy for “normal” people as well. I recall a time some years ago when I was managing a restaurant in Austin that I approached a table whose food was taking a little too long to make sure that we could salvage their experience to the best of our abilities. I was met there by a family of five including three adult children, a silent martyr of a father, and a middle-aged mother who could’ve benefitted from the “Karen” pseudo-slur before that colloquialism was popularized. What was typically an interaction that consisted of me smiling, apologizing, and offering some complimentary bread service to keep a table occupied while we put out whatever fire was holding us back in the kitchen was quickly soured by Karen scoffing at me and saying “What are you supposed to be? A manager? Are you even old enough to drive?”
This wasn’t the first time, nor the last time that I would deal with some condescending, entitled Westlaker, so I just smiled and said “Flattery won’t earn you any more free bread or soup than I’m already inclined to offer you at this juncture.” Everyone laughed except for her, I thanked them for their patience, and I walked away. Frankly, I probably wouldn’t have given this unpleasantry a second thought had it not been matched by a similarly distasteful experience when I returned ten or so minutes later to check on their levels of enjoyment after getting a chance to eat their delayed food at which time Karen looked up at me and said “Oh you again. If I wanted to speak to you, I would have gotten out of this uncomfortable booth and found you myself.” Let’s pause right here for just a moment so that I may inquire of you, dear reader, what do you think is the best way to respond to such a thing? If you don’t know, well, that makes two of us. I had no idea how to respond to something so rude, but luckily, I didn’t have to because her daughter looked up and answered for me.
“Mom, you are being so fucking rude. Why do you think it’s necessary to talk to him like that? He’s just doing his job. You’re embarrassing.” She looked up at me and said “I’m so sorry. Everything tastes great and we all appreciate your help.” I thanked her for her kind words, implored them to enjoy and let me know if they needed anything, and departed without any further acknowledgement of the woman who had made it her quest to torment me as she was clearly embarrassed at this point and didn’t need any exacerbation of this from me. I’ve since had much worse in terms of unpleasant guest interactions, but this one struck me as profoundly different and has, as such, stuck with me because of the way that I got to witness a family member of the offending guest call out the outlandish behavior they witnessed from their loved one in an attempt to subvert its perpetuation. I have no interest in trading blows with a guest for being rude to me because I’m not their father and my ego isn’t so fragile as to feel inclined to stoop to their level. The only times that I’ve ever gotten curt with guests has been when they were rude to my staff which is exactly what Kevin McNally did when he began his very public exchange with James Corden.
However, there is a sizable disparity that’s not being given much credence in this debacle. See Kevin McNally is an established, successful restauranteur with a following significant enough to put himself in a position to fall on the sword for his exchange with the rude guest in question. You don’t necessarily need to be that successful or well-known to feel comfortable trading blows with someone giving you ire in the restaurant that sustains your living, but you do need to be in a position with enough authority to not have some potential fallout from correcting a behavior that society should’ve corrected for you. I don’t have that. The vast majority of restaurant managers in an urban sprawl such as Austin or New York City don’t either. Having the onus on us to teach restaurant patrons how to be civilized shouldn’t be the norm. Instead, we all need to be the village it takes to raise the proverbial child in this scenario. When you see something, say something. If you want to continue to enjoy eating out, good restaurants need the benefit of being able to retain quality staff and, in case the mass hospitality staffing shortages we saw during post-shutdown restaurant re-openings taught you nothing, one of the driving forces that push tenured restaurant workers out of their respective posts is the abuse they face at the hands of entitled guests.
I don’t know enough about Kevin McNally as a restauranteur to give him any form of uncritical support (and frankly, know too much about his strange instagram behavior to give him uncritical support as a person), but the shaming of rude guests is a trend that we could all stand to see the continuation of. If we, as a society, cannot come together for the cause of providing course correction to those who would see to it that service workers continue to be abused - by whatever means necessary - then we do not deserve the enormous privilege we enjoy in this country of enjoying lavish meals with service fit for royalty.
austin’s hidden gems
86 best of lists. i want to hear about the low-key spots that you love. here’s mine.
As many of you who’ve followed me for long enough may have gathered, I’m a fan of eating out. My career in hospitality hasn’t exactly been an accident and if I had to attribute my longevity to anything in particular, it’s the feeling of being a part of something in a city that has such a bustling food scene. I love walking into a restaurant and having the time of my life, but I arguably love the feeling of giving that feeling to others who stumble into my quarters even more. Lately, as I’ve been doing the writing thing more, I’ve found that this part of my life has been popping up more than just incidentally. Being on display like this for anyone who finds my website or instagram has been a little strange, but one of the features of this that I’ve been really enjoying is that people I know are going to the bars and restaurants that I mention on here and letting me know about it. It feels good to have some sort of voice about something that I’m so passionate about - however small or seemingly insignificant it is.
A friend recently suggested that I put together a list of recommendations though I’m hesitant to do so due to the oversaturation of this sort of journalism and another friend of mine’s observation that my “pretentious restaurant operations brain” can’t filter out what’s good enough from what’s truly great. With this in mind, I’ve decided to be really intentional about this. I’ve thought long and hard about the establishments that I would highlight for this piece and I think that I’ve struck a good balance of under-represented and delicious with less-than-my-usual insistence on great service. I also don’t want to be another talking head shouting about the merited glory of the institutions in this city like Odd Duck, Suerte, Canje, Aviary, Uchi, and Barley Swine; we all know about these restaurants by now and I’ve had revelatory meals at all of them so I assume most of those who also know these names already know that they’re great without me telling them that they are. These spots are also the kind of restaurants where you’re absolutely going to pay for the quality you get and I would like this list to lean more towards the places where you can go and enjoy yourself without breaking the bank. That said, there are lots of places that fit this criteria but aren’t in need of another write up so as much as I love places like Nixta, Better Half, Loro, Sour Duck Market, etc, my list isn’t for them. That said, I know that last filter is a little more vague so I’m well aware that I’ll probably dip into that gray area at some point. I’m not getting paid for this and this is much more so for everyone else than it is for me so don’t nitpick me too much.
Lord knows, the city of Austin is in absolutelty no need of another “best of” list. Instead, kick back for a second and let me tell you about some cool places I’ve been to that I like a lot and you may not have heard of. Without further ado, I present to you twenty-two restaurants and food trucks that I love in no particular order:
ALEXANDER’S LIST 2022
Shawarma Halal
How many times have you walked past the innocuous and unassuming halal trucks that line downtown and not given any of them a second thought? Personally, I’ve done this many times and, by the report of many that I trust, I understand this to not be particularly of detriment, but in this instance, you would be sorely mistaken to look past the absolute gem that is Shawarma Halal on East 6th outside of popular eastside dive bar, Grackle. Not only does this truck offer killer chicken shawarma plates, kabab, gyro, falafel, and smothered fries for right around the food truck standard of $12, but they sling ‘em out till 3AM every night which makes them the perfect food truck in my humble opinion.
Shawarma Halal is located at 1700 East 6th Street, Austin, TX 78702.
They are open Monday through Saturday from 11 AM to 3 AM and Sunday from 4 PM to 3 AM.
Find more information at shawama-halal.com
Casa de Luz
A true hidden gem that you don’t know about until someone has told you about it, Casa de Luz is tucked away a quick walk from Zilker Park on Toomey Road serving a mound of daily changing vegan food that will satisfy even those of us with the most carnivorish tendencies for only $13 in a lush garden area that features a playground for we breeders. Bonus points for being open 7 AM to 8:30 PM every day of the week as well which is far more consistent than you can expect from most in this city.
Casa de Luz is located at 1701 Toomey Road, Austin, TX 78704.
They are open everyday from 7 AM to 8:30 PM.
Find more information at casadeluz.org and follow them on instagram @casadeluz_atx
Palo Seco
After a several month hiatus, the birria masters at La Tunita 512 have reopened with the name Palo Seco in an easy-to-miss white trailer off Burleson next to a Valero. The quality of the queso tacos and birria ramen alone should give this spot a never-ending line and a “sold out” sign every day, but the low prices and its next-door neighbor status to a gas station with a good wine and beer selection to enjoy with your meal should make Palo Seco an undeniable next destination on your next spot of culinary tourism. Keep in mind that while they’re unfortunately closed on Sundays and Mondays, this actually lands them open on the uncommon open day for restaurants and food trucks in Austin of Tuesday so add this to your list of spots to sneak in during the Austin weekend.
Palo Seco is located at 2400 Burleson Road, Austin, TX 78741.
They are open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 AM to 6 PM.
Find more information + order online at palo-seco.square.site and follow them on instagram @palo.seco512
Golden Tiger
Listen, I have some real mixed feelings about Whislers, but regardless, I know two things to be undoubtedly true about any visit I make to the East 6th cocktail bar: I’m going to get a mean Paranubes daiquiri and the best smash burger in town from their resident food truck, Golden Tiger. With a single patty burger going for $7, I can’t think of a better deal that you can get your hands on until 1:30 AM every day than this humble food truck. Worth mentioning as well are the incredible fried chicken and fried tofu sandwiches that cater towards any type of late-night diner.
Golden Tiger is located at 1816 East 6th Street, Austin, TX 78702 behind Whisler’s.
They are open Monday through Friday from 4 PM to 1:30 AM and Saturday + Sunday from 2 PM to 1:30 AM.
Find more information + order online at goldentigeratx.com and follow them on instagram @goldentigeratx
Kiin Di
There are two Thai spots on my list, but they’re pretty vastly different. Kiin Di is a real treasure located right outside of Corner Bar on South Lamar that shells out Thai food with a Texas twist. The Lost Recipe with chicken and the roti happen to be some of my favorite plates in South Austin. Try it for yourself and find out why. Just get your timing right as they’re not a late-night truck and they are closed on the usual days of Monday and Tuesday.
Kiin Di is located at 1901 South Lamar Boulevard, Austin, TX 78704.
They are open Wednesday + Thursday from 4 PM to 10 PM, Friday + Saturday from 3 PM to 10 PM, and Sunday from 3 PM to 9 PM.
Find more information + order online at kiindiatx.com and follow them on instagram @kiindiatx
Titaya’s Thai Cuisine
For a more classic Thai experience, look no further than Austin original, Titaya’s on North Lamar. This place has been around at very least as long as I’ve been driving around the city of Austin and never let me down in any capacity. With delicious, huge portion plates with speedy service that doesn’t break the bank, you can bet that I’m making the drive up north for my basil fried rice fix from Titaya’s. Beware, however, just like nearly everything in Austin, they’re closed on Mondays.
Titaya’s Thai Cuisine is located at 5501 North Lamar Boulevard, Austin, TX 78751.
They are open Tuesday through Friday from 11 AM to 2:30 PM + 5 PM to 9:30 PM and Saturday + Sunday from 12 PM to 3:30 PM + 5 PM to 9:30 PM.
Find more information + order online at titayasthaicuisine.com
Seoulju
Formerly hole in the wall Korean street food kings College Roadhouse rebranded some time ago as Seoulju but continued to deliver nothing but the hits regardless of the name. Located in a strip mall on North Lamar next to popular nightclub, Rodeo, you’ll find Seoulju slinging out some of the best Korean food in the city until 1 AM on the weekends and until 11 PM on Sunday and Thursday. The achilles heel of this fine establishment is simply that they’re only open those four days, but don’t let that stop you from enjoying the creme de la creme of Korean fried chicken and bulgogi kimchi fries that put Chi’lantro to shame as well as vast soju selection for any adventurous drinkers in the audience.
Seoulju is located at 9515 North Lamar Boulevard Suite 230, Austin, TX 78753.
They serve food Thursday + Sunday from 7 PM to 11 PM and Friday + Saturday from 7 PM to 1 AM.
Find more information + order online at seouljuatx.com and follow them on instagram @seouljuatx
Brown’s BBQ
Corner Bar on South Lamar not only boasts the incredible aformentioned Kiin Di, but also one of the best bang-for-your-buck barbecue joints in the city by way of Brown’s BBQ. From $7 quarter-pound briskt wraps to the smokiest bouldin you’ve had this side of Louisiana, Brown’s is almost hilariously easy to look past but one would be tragically mistaken to do so. The mac and cheese loaded with their brisket scraps for $3 is also a mandatory order so don’t sleep on the sides. They’re closed on Monday, but their instagram says they give away everything they’ve got left before their day off on Sunday from 3 PM to 5 PM so if you still need a reason to check it out, look no further.
Brown’s BBQ is located at 1901 South Lamar Boulevard, Austin, TX 78704.
They serve food Tuesday through Saturday from 11 AM to 7 PM and Sunday from 11 AM to 5 PM.
Find more information at facebook.com/brownsbarbque and follow them on instagram @brownsbarbque
Phoenicia Bakery & Deli
Serving as half grocery store, half counter-service deli. This nearly forty-year old Mediterranean and Middle Eastern deli has some of the best baklava you’ll get in the city of Austin, a muffuletta sandwich that will make even olive-haters like me believers, and cheese bread that compels me to salivate with just a thought. It also can’t go without mention that you’ll find a lot of unique grocery items here that you simply won’t find commonly in the city. Phoenicia is closed Sundays, but otherwise open six days a week for breakfast, lunch, and early dinner.
Phoenicia Bakery & Deli has two locations at 2912 South Lamar Boulevard, Austin, TX 78704 + at 4701 Burnet Road, Austin, TX 78756.
The South Lamar location is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 AM to 6 PM + the Burnet location is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 6 PM.
Phoenicia has a limited online presence, but do have an instagram @phoeniciabakery and a facebook at facebook.com/phoeniciabakery
Thunder Chief
Listen, I hate sports bars. I don’t care about sports in general and the environments that sports fans flock to scream at a television such as Lavaca Street Bar turn me off just in concept. The fact that I will enter the Lavaca on South Lamar and expose myself to an environment that I carry such vitriol for on a regular basis just to enjoy their in house culinary offerings should be a damning endorsement of the food. Thunder Chief offers an exquisite take on bar food at a reasonable price until 10 PM every night. From burgers and chicken sandwiches, to an abomination of loaded fries dubbed Irish Nachos, to the best chicken wings in town, Chef Josh Kotschedoff knows how to play the game and play it well. My only gripe is that they close so early for a bar, but it seems like a small team operation so I’ll be content to let the crew rest. Bonus points for RB who runs their social media and produces the funniest instagram captions in the southwest.
Thunder Chief is located inside Lavaca Street Bar at 3121 South Lamar Boulevard, Austin, TX 78704.
They are open Monday through Friday from 4 PM to 10 PM and Saturday + Sunday from 11 AM to 10 PM.
Find more information at lavacasouthlamar.com/thunder-chief and follow them on instagram @thunderchief_atx
Casper Fermantables
The best bagel in the city of Austin throne was claimed for Casper Fermentables by the Statesman’s Matthew Odam and I have to agree. The audacity you have to have as a bagel shop to not toast your bagels and still have the best bagel I’ve ever eaten speaks volumes, but don’t just take my word for it. The kimchi bagels, the lox bagels, the sesame kraut bagels, the spicy turkey sandwich, and the rugelach…lord, the rugelach… wash it down with their revolving flavors of housemade kombucha and thank me later.
Casper Fermentableis located at 4715 South Lamar Boulevard, Sunset Valley, TX 78745.
They are open Thursday + Friday from 8 AM to 2 PM and Satuday + Sunday from 9 AM to 2 PM.
Find more information at casperfermentables.com and follow them on instagram @casperfermentables
Cuantos Tacos
Despite being tragically closed on Sundays and Mondays, East 12th sweetheart Cuantos Tacos loses no points in my book because they offer some of the best tried and true Chilango tacos between Austin and the valley. At just $2.50 per taco, the cacheta, suadero, and champiñones tacos alone are more than sufficient offerings, but you’re also not doing yourself any sort of disservice by just ordering one of everything. For anything other than birria (which their Taco Mafia cohorts at the aforementioned Palo Seco more than have covered), look no further for your beautifully greasy taco fix than Cuantos Tacos.
Cuantos Tacos is located at 1108 East 12th Street, Austin, TX 78702.
They are open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 AM to 10 PM.
Find more information + order online at cuantostacosaustin.com and follow them on instagram @cuantostacos512
Leroy and Lewis
Located right outside of popular centrally-located coffee and cocktail spot, Cosmic Coffee & Beer Garden lies an undeniable titan in Austin Barbecue with the quick-handed geniuses at Leroy and Lewis. Although they too succumb to the curse of being closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, the sheer tenacity of their beef cheeks and barbacoa will leave you thanking them for taking the proper rest time to reach such extraordinary culinary feats. While I’ve never made it in time to try their famed brisket before they sell out, I can only imagine that it would be just as saliva-inducing as their other offerings that I have had the pleasure of enjoying. As if the food wasn't enough of a draw, the fact that they’ll have a plate in your hand within a minute of ordering is even more of a testament to Leroy and Lewis’s excellence.
Leroy and Lewis is located at 121 Pickle Road, Austin, TX 78704.
They are open Wednesday through Sunday from 11 AM to 9 PM.
Find more information at leroyandlewisbbq.com and follow them on instagram @leroyandlewis
The Little Darlin’
Boasting a huge patio, live music, a few pool tables, ample parking, killer beer selection, seven-day-a-week restaurant quality food offerings available from 11 AM to 2 AM, one might ask themself why The Little Darlin’ isn’t at the top of every best bar list in town. The simple answer is that it suffers from the inescapably difficult to grapple with condition of being located on the south side of town. I’m no stranger to the 78745 personally, but for the folks who don’t go north of the river or south of 290, this one may feel like a bit of a trek. But if you’re not afraid of the distance, you’ll find a true treasure with The Little Darlin’ on Circle S. While I’ve tried and been immensely satisfied with nearly all of their food offerings at this point, I would issue a brief word of caution that their Beyond Burger is one of the spiciest things I’ve ever put in my mouth, but this complaint is just a drop in the bucket compared to how vastly wonderful the other offerings found at this south Austin original are.
The Little Darlin’ is located at 6507 Circle S Road, Austin, TX 78745.
They are open every day from 11 AM to 2 AM.
Find more information at thelittledarlin.com and follow them on instagram @the_little_darlin
Show Me Pizza
I’m not sure when I initially found Show Me Pizza online, but after hearing some favorable reviews from some folks I trusted, accidentally stumbling upon them on a family outing to their next door neighbors at Toss Pizza felt like fate enough to convince me to abandon my original plans and let Show Me, well, show me what they had to offer. What I found were decadent neapolitan style pies with, no exaggeration, the best dough I’ve ever eaten on a pizza. The Domo Arrabbiata Mr. Roboto in particular was just such a gorgeous expression of fermented chili, sausage, provolone, and honey’s phenomenal flavor combinations that I’ve not been able to stomach another pizza since on account of the unreasonably high standards that Show Me has given me.
Show Me Pizza is located at 2809 South 1st Street, Austin, TX 78704.
They are open Monday from 5 PM to 10 PM and Wednesday through Sunday from 11 AM to 10 PM.
Find more information + order online at showmepizza.com and follow them on instagram @showmepizza
Distant Relatives
Man, I don’t want to wait in some stupid line for barbecue so you won’t catch me getting my smoked meats fix at Franklin’s or Terry Black’s. I’ve already expressed my love for Leroy and Lewis and, in my opinion, Distant Relatives is one of the only Barbecue trucks in town of the same caliber. But the spare ribs, y’all… the spare ribs at Distant Relatives are the gold standard of what ribs should taste like. And don’t let my glowing endorsement of the ribs keep you from thinking that every other item on the menu that I haven’t mentioned is somehow not worth mentioning; Distant Relatives simply does not make bad food. From start to finish, everything I’ve eaten at the humble truck behind the patio champion and fine beer purveyor, Meanwhile Brewing, has been out of this world. Though they too suffer from being closed on the Austin weekend, I’m inclined to look the other way on account of this marvel of barbecue excellence.
Distant Relatives is located at 3901 Promontory Point Drive, Austin, TX 78744.
They are open Wednesday through Sunday from 12 PM to 8 PM.
Find more information at distantrelativesatx.com and follow them on instagram @distantrelativesatx
Wok ‘N Express
I can’t believe I’m revealing my secrets here, but the best no-flare Chinese in the city is a title unquestionably held by convenience store/Chinese takeout warriors, Wok ‘N Express. The north campus darlings have minted the gold standard of fried rice with their Wok ‘N Express fried rice featuring chicken, steak, chinese sausage, and shrimp. They have other stuff, but I don’t care. The Wok ‘N Express fried rice is one of the greatest dishes ever conceived in the history of the culinary arts. Do they have a storefront? Presumably, but I’ve only ever had it delivered to be completely honest. That’s how good this shit is; I don’t need to see the restaurant or try anything else to give a full, unflinching endorsement to this fine establishment. Long live Wok ‘N Express. Don’t try to go on Tuesdays (shocker), but more importantly, don’t make me regret telling you about it, you heathens.
Wok ‘N Express is located at 4413 Guadalupe Street, Austin, TX 78751.
They are open Monday + Wednesday through Sunday from 11 AM to 10 PM.
Find more information + order online at woknexpress.com and follow them on instagram @woknexpress
Biderman’s Deli
It feels like this is as good of a time as ever to remind you all of my Judaism. So here’s your resident Jew here to tell you about a bagel shop - yes, yes I do love combating stereotypes. As a former Northwest Austin resident, I took immense comfort in being just minutes away from such a splendid display of bagel excellence as Biderman’s on Far West (though it should not go without mentioning that the bagels are made by Rosen’s Bagel Co.). Nowadays, I don’t get to make it out as much, but their everything bagels with cream cheese and lox and their reubens will always hold a special place in my heart. Additionally, I would be remiss if I didn’t plug their marvelous matzo ball soup that filled the void that the long-since departed Manny Hattan's left. Their place on this list as one of the rare gems that’s open seven days a week doesn’t hurt my favor either.
Biderman’s Deli’s sole Austin location is located at 3742 Far West Boulevard #101, Austin, TX 78731. They also have two outposts in Houston with addresses and hours of operation available on their website.
They are open every day from 8 AM to 4 PM.
Find more information + order online at bidermansdeli.com and follow them on instagram @bidermansdeli
Old Thousand
An old favorite of mine, Old Thousand is the frilly Chinese cuisine on the other side of Wok ‘N Express’s beautiful simplicity. With two prime locations off Burnet and East 11th, a good cocktail menu, and brisket fried rice that will make you shed a single tear, one might be inclined to think that there’s not a great need to brag on the modern Chinese sit-down joint that clearly speaks for itself, but for me, the star of Old Thousand is its Sunday brunch offerings. I’m not much of a bruncher to be totally honest, but when people ask me where to partake in such a thing about town, they’re always surprised to hear Old Thousand come out of my mouth. The uniqueness of Cantonese scrambled eggs, smoked salmon rangoons, banana custard french toast, duck fat waffles with fried chicken and Szechuan lime butter, and mala-spiced bacon make Old Thousand an absolute standout in a town catering towards the pancakes and crepes crowd.
Old Thousand has two locations at 1000 East 11th Street Suite 150, Austin, TX 78702 + 4805 Burnet Road, Austin, TX 78756.
Their original East 11th location is open Tuesday through Thursday from 5 PM to 10 PM, Friday + Saturday from 5 PM to 11 PM, and Sunday from 12 PM to 3 PM + 5 PM to 10 PM.
Their Burnet location is open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 AM to 9 PM.
Find more information + order online at oldthousandatx.com and follow them on instagram @oldthousandatx
Bisous
This brand new contender has solidified a place in my heart immediately and not for no reason. My home bar, Gibson Street Bar, has been without a consistent food truck since the night Luke’s Inside Out faded into retirement. So, for the last 7 months or so, I’ve been ordering Mandala from across the street which boasts just decent food and being open until midnight as its sole pull factors. When I saw the famous red and white truck finally reappear next to the bar on Friday afternoon, I knew that the time for something great was upon us and I wasn’t wrong. Chef Bianca Frasier, formerly of Austin institution, Foreign & Domestic, has solidified herself as a solid contender in the Austin food truck scene with some homestyle Vietnamese food that impresses at every turn. While the entrees I’ve tried are really tasty, I’m particularly attached to the Viet Girl Caviar with rice chips which is the perfect snack to enjoy with a beer. Lord knows that I don’t need any help enjoying a rice bowl so Bisous is really playing into my needs better than I could’ve ever asked for.
Bisous is located at 1109 South Lamar Boulevard, Austin, TX 78704.
They are open from 4 PM to 11 PM Sunday + Tuesday through Thursday and 4 PM to 12 AM Friday + Saturday.
Find more information at bisousatx.com and follow them on instagram @bisous_viethomecookin
Big O’s Pit BBQ
Another regular stop for me from when I was more regularly north was this easy to miss gem. The 50+ year barbecue veterans at Big O’s on Burnet are open Monday through Saturday from 11 AM to 7 PM and while they just generally offer the standard barbecue fare, Big O’s plates are juicier, bigger, and cheaper than most of their competitors. Pair this with their ridiculously indulgent breakfast offerings like brisket and egg burritos and you’ve got a true sleeper in the Austin barbecue scene that deserves to stop being slept on.
Big O’s Pit BBQ is located at 4707 Burnet Road, Austin, TX 78756.
They are open from 11 AM to 7 PM Monday through Saturday.
Find more information at bigospitbbq.com and follow them on instagram @bigospitbbq
Oye Chico
What can I say about Carlos Suarez’s cubano trailer that I haven’t already said? It’s the best version of the best sandwich in town and you can swim in a cowboy pool or enjoy a cafecito while you wait. Carlos recently rolled out a special mojo pork con arroz y platanos for one night only as well so maybe we can expect a slightly expanded menu soon, but even if it’s just Cuban sandwiches forever, we will be lucky for it. This is by far the recommendation I’ve given that y’all have listened to the most so if you haven’t gone yet, go.
Oye Chico is located at 406 Walsh Street, Austin, TX 78703.
They are open from 10 AM to 2PM + 5 PM to 10 PM Wednesday through Sunday.
Find more information + order online at oyechicoatx.com and follow them on instagram @oyechicoatx